Nuremberg, Germany. August 19 and 20

Horni Plana, Czech Republic. August 18

Our drive to Horni Plana from Znojmo was memorable in that we may as well have been off-roading in some sort of all terrain vehicle.  There simply was no good way to get between the two locations, so a wide variety of small, small roads were utilized in and out of Austria and the Czech Republic until, finally, we arrived.   Obviously, the master planner of this trip overlooked some key logistical problems and she questioned her judgment several times, including in a deep, dark forest on an unmarked road that was far too narrow to accommodate two way traffic, but miraculously did.  This would be our last camping venture, and will remain memorable in my mind for the humanity we encountered from our fellow tourists.  Pulling into the campground, I was dismayed to see a scruffy volkswagen with German plates pulling up right behind me.  In a cloud of cigarette smoke, a thin, scruffy man emerged and proceeded to walk with me to the office.  I almost always avoid small talk, and I'm now learning that is not always a wise route to follow.  He spoke to me in German because of my license plate, and when I explained that I'm American, and obviously traveling alone with my children,  I received more unwelcome questions and chit chat.  I registered and paid first and promptly left the office to select our camping spot.  The kids kept busy on the trampoline, and the German and, I was relieved to see, his wife, drove by without further conversation.  I set up the tent while the kids played and eventually we meandered our way down to the beach of Lake Lipno which is near the Sumava Forest on the German/Czech border.  Highlights of the lake include playing in the sand, enjoying the scenery, and watching a tiny car ferry pass back and forth.  The air and lake were both cold and that helped to explain why the campground was only 10% full.  We did jump into the lake, to the horror of all three of us, I think.  This was worse than swimming in Lago di Maggiore between rainstorms.  After some swimming, we headed up to town for a non-memorable dinner, not even Czech food, got some ice cream and ran back down to our tent, just as some rain was passing.  One of the most lovely sites of the trip was the rainbow as seen from our tent window as the rain passed.  The next morning saw more rain, so the tent was piled, wet into the back of the Opel as I wondered how it was ever going to dry for the flight home.  As I was packing, I saw the beaten down Volkswagen pull up and tried to ignore it at first, but when I no longer could, due to the fact that the man was walking right toward me, I saw that he had a colorful bag in his hand.  It was gummies from his wife's factory he told me, and he wanted my children to have them.  This unexpected kindness is something that is so small, but also so restoring as I often fear and purposely ignore people, but I do think it's to my own detriment.  In fact, after wadding up our wet items, brushing teeth, clothing the kids in something half dry and presentable, we were ready to leave town, when the next act of kindness occurred.  This was at the local grocery store and I was 40 cents short and out of Czech money, but the couple behind me, also Germans, gave me what I needed.  Again, a tiny act of kindness, (who wouldn't offer 40 cents?) but it happened less than an hour after the first, so to me it had added impact.  I want to trust others more and in future travels, I hope to engage more people in conversation as I think it will enhance everyone's overall experience.  We had a brief drive out of what was now the Bohemian half of the Czech Republic (respect and wonder  to my Bohemian ancestors who left their beautiful homeland in search of something better...Maple Lake, MN?)  And, headed back into Germany as the trip was finally coming full circle.

 

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Znojmo, Czech Republic. August 17

And, our awesome day continues...  After winding around some narrow Austrian and Czech roads, we made our way to beautiful Znojmo!  Not exactly a household name, nor a word that rolls off the tongue, it was nonetheless an unexpectedly beautiful stop.  I look at the photos and am reminded of what a gorgeous day it was!  The setting was quite dramatic, with the old town, castle and churches perched on top of a cliff overlooking the river.  This city was also quite ancient, an important strategic southern town for the Moravian Kings.  Modern Czech Republic is actually two major historic/geographic entities:  Bohemia and Moravia.   This must be Moravia at its best!  While the kids enjoyed the playground on the castle grounds, I enjoyed a lovely Moravian white wine, and ordered them some Kofola.  I was very impressed with the Czech Republic because they have not lost their own cola to Pepsi and Coke.  Kofola is their own beverage and seems to be a favorite of the locals.  We liked it too!  It was less sugary than Pepsi and Coke and we bought a big two liter on our way out of the Czech Rep into Germany in honor of the Czechs and their local loyalties.  Znojmo was a great stop for a day because it was so compact.  We stayed at a hotel right on the main square and just wandered out a few blocks from there.  This was perfect because we had already had quite the busy day, so it was nice to relax here for the afternoon.  The only real touristy thing we did was take an underground tour of the city.  Citizens of Znojmo would seek refuge underground when the city was under siege, and there was an extensive network of tunnels.  The tour was in Czech so it was a little boring, but the kids liked the ghoulish figures that highlighted the darker elements of Moravian history including how the underground also housed the town torture chamber and prison.  We had a lovely dinner, again lots of meat, rich sauce, and dumplings.  I do love Czech and Slovak food!  And, as is quite evident, the kids loved their crepe-like pancake dessert!